Food & Drink
First Meal Out
Empanadas at San Telmo market with piquante sauce.
The Parilla
A parilla is an Argentinian grill. It is famous for steak and ribs but you can get other meats and also things like speciality sausages and offal. But as far as I can see, people mostly go for steak. The word parilla can be used to refer to the barbecue grill itself or the type of restaurant. The pronunciation is pa-ree-ja (ja with a J not a Y).
In the first 2 weeks I visited 2 of these establishments. Both times I went for the bide de chorizo which is a sirloin steak. Other popular cuts are the ojo de bife (ribeye), and the loom (tenderloin) which is often sliced at the table. The size of the cuts are much bigger than the UK and the prices are much lower. Both times, I asked for it to be pink in the middle and both times it perfectly was. In Salta, we got through 2 starters, two steaks, some shared fries and salad and half a litre of house red and it came out at £32. So almost worth the flight over.
Mate
Mate, (pronounced mat-tay) , is a drink taken across Argentina and neighbouring countries and like PG Tips in the UK it is much more than a drink. First you need a gourd which is a hollowed out cup. You fill the gourd with yerba mate leaves and pour over water. The water needs to be 75 to 80 degrees c. Boiling water will burn the leaves. Let it infuse for a while and then drink through a bombilla (a straw with a filter on the end. So far to simple. Unlike UK type tea, you can keep adding water. The thing can keep going all day. Mate is a social thing. Families can share the gourd / bombilla and if you work in an office in Argentina you will find a gourd on the go when you get in. It is passed round. The person who has it is responsible for making sure it is all good for the next person. It is bad form for the next person the criticise the preparation of the last person. You see many MANY people out and about drinking mate. Usually one hand holding a gourd and the other holding a thermos flask. They say it is an acquired taste but I liked it straight away. It is slightly bitter and if anything it is closest to green tea. However it is not the same as green tea. Mate has some health giving properties as well as being a source of caffeine. A useful link below….
I know someone selling mate on the internet. A great website with loads of useful info. Check out The Yerba Crew on the button below.
Tamales (Humita en Chala)
Tamales are all the rage in Mexico and South America. The Argentinian version is more likely found out in the provinces (ie not Buenos Aires) and we encountered them several times in Salta. These are basically little packages of corn pulp (could be confined with spices, cheese or flour – any or none of these) and steamed in a corn husk. Something to go with your big juicy steak.
And unwrapped……
Alfajores
Alfajores are a kind of a shortbread biscuit sandwich with a filling of jam, mouse or dulche leche. Think of a wagon wheel with less E numbers but more calories. These are big in Argentina with whole shops dedicated to selling them (even at the airport). You can buy in gift packs or one at a time. I would say that the right amount to eat at any one time is a quarter of a whole one (otherwise a feeling off queasiness sets in for the rest of the day.
Pisco
Pisco is a type of brandy made from fermented grape juice, originating from Chile and Peru. There are several distilleries in the Elqui Valley. It is a clear or slightly amber-colored spirit with a strong, distinct flavor. Both Chile and Peru claim pisco as their national spirit, and the two countries have developed different styles and regulations around its production, leading to a friendly rivalry over which version is the “authentic” pisco. Having tasted a few I would say that the PISCO that has aged in a French oak barrel tastes the most like brandy although you wouldn’t get them both mixed up.
Key Points about Pisco:
•Grapes: Pisco is made from specific varieties of grapes, primarily Muscat, but also other aromatic grape varieties. The choice of grapes and the production process give pisco its fruity and floral notes.
•Distillation: Pisco is distilled in copper stills, and unlike other brandies, it is not aged in wood, which allows the grape flavors to remain pure and unaltered by oak.
•Alcohol Content: Typically, pisco has an alcohol content of around 35-45%, similar to vodka or whiskey.
Pisco Styles:
•Chilean Pisco: Chilean pisco is often distilled to a higher proof and comes in various categories based on alcohol content (e.g., Pisco Corriente, Pisco Especial, Pisco Reservado). It can be more refined and less fruity than the Peruvian version.
•Peruvian Pisco: In Peru, pisco must be made in copper stills and distilled only once, without any added water to adjust the alcohol content. It’s categorized into styles like Pisco Puro (single grape variety), Pisco Acholado (blend of grapes), and Pisco Mosto Verde (distilled from partially fermented must).
Popular Pisco Cocktails:
•Pisco Sour: The most famous cocktail made with pisco. It combines pisco with lime juice, simple syrup, egg white, and Angostura bitters, creating a frothy, tangy drink.
•Chilcano: A refreshing Peruvian cocktail made with pisco, ginger ale, and lime.
Pisco is a versatile spirit, enjoyed both neat and in cocktails, and it plays a significant role in the cultural and culinary identity of both Chile and Peru.
Curanto
According to The Rough Guide….
Chiloé’s signature dish, curanto, has been prepared for centuries using cooking methods very similar to those used in Polynesia, testimony to the legendary sailing prowess of the Polynesians. First, extremely hot rocks are placed at the bottom of an earthen pit; then, a layer of shellfish is added, followed by chunks of smoked meat, chicken, longanisa (sausage), potatoes, chapaleles and milcaos (potato dumplings). The pit is then covered with nalca (Chilean wild rhubarb) leaves; as the shellfish cooks, the shells spring open, releasing their juices onto the hot rocks, steaming the rest of the ingredients. When we had it, it contained all of the above including supersized mussels.
Traditional curanto (curanto en hoyo) is slow-cooked in the ground for a day or two, but since traditional cooking methods are only used in the countryside, most people end up sampling curanto en olla, also known as pulmay, oven-baked in cast-iron pots. The dish comes with hot shellfish broth to be drunk (and used for dipping your shellfish) during the meal.”
If we learned anything I would say we only needed 1 portion between 2 and watch out because it gets cold quick. And that smoked meat takes some chewing no matter how long it has been cooking! The first photo is the real deal, the second is a close cousin.
Ceviche
Seafood marinated in lime or lemon, served with bread, usually as a starter. In our case the focus was on Salman so I guess this is the specialty of Chiloe. And don’t forget the purple crisps!
Chivito- The national dish of Uruguay
Basically a steak sandwich with a bit of cheese (could be mozzarella), salad and sometimes ham (or bacon), but always with an egg on top.
Dulche de Leche
A kind of caramelised milk goo that is very sweet and super-popular in Argentina. It pops up in pastries and even in drinks. There are many shops that sell nothing but dulche de leche.
Tannat - The national grape of Uruguay
Tannat is a red wine grape that is considered the national grape of Uruguay. It is a full-bodied wine with a deep color and high tannin content that is often aged in oak barrels. Tannat wines from Uruguay are known for their elegant and softer tannins, and blackberry fruit notes. Don’t really see it anywhere else.
